I was like this once.

Thinking I’d need tour guides to visit Egypt — or an entire tour group — was one of the main reasons I put off going.

Rome, Florence, Venice, London, Paris, Athens: These are all places I visited before going to Egypt, even though it topped all of them on my list.

Is Egypt safe?  How will I get around?  Do I need a tour guide in Egypt?  Surely, I need a tour group, right?   Do I want to spend thousands of dollars just so I can be tied to a pack of other tourists and be herded about?

Do I need a tour guide in Egypt?  How about an entire tour group?

When you visit Egypt with a tour group, everything is done for you.  And I mean everything.

Someone will meet you at the airport and get you through customs.  They’ll drive you to the hotel they selected.  You’ll meet the group of other tourists every morning, and you’ll ride a bus to the sites that have been picked out for you.

You’ll fly to the next city as a group, and maybe you’ll ride on a little ship down the Nile.  You’ll visit sites together, where you’re escorted around by someone carrying a little flag on a stick — that way, you can keep track of where you’re supposed to be.

You might make friends with some other people in the group, who will almost inevitably be people like you.  You’ll go to the same restaurants together, you’ll take the same bathroom breaks together.  You might share some jokes about things you see out the window of your bus.

For some, this is appealing — and they’re willing to pay a premium to get it.  They like routine; they like predictability. And that’s fine. Everyone should do what’s best for them. But for me, I prefer a different kind of experience.

Tour groups can mean you’re missing out

I stopped for a snack at a little shop in Luxor, and started chatting with the owner.

He bemoaned tour groups.  Although his shop was located just a few feet from the Nile, steps away from where the cruise ships dock, tourists rarely stopped there.

Why?  According to him, they aren’t supposed to.

To a certain extent, I get it.  Avoiding getting hassled in Luxor is an issue.  But when every little thing is planned out for you, you’re often missing out on experiencing what the culture is actually like.

Will there be difficulties if you visit Egypt without a tour group?  Sure.  Will things always go according to plan?  Of course not. 

But for me, that’s part of the experience. 

On top of this, you’ll have a schedule to keep.  Want to spend a bit more time at one site?  Want to head to this place instead of that?  Well, that’s an issue.  There’s dozens of others waiting on you.  Some of them are hungry.  Others are tired. 

That guy over on the end…well, he has to go to the bathroom again, and Ethel has a headache anyway — so you need to cut your visit here a bit short.

Now, I’m not going to judge anyone who goes on a prearranged tour.  Everyone’s different, and everyone has their own reasons.  But to me, if you’re going on vacation just to sit by a pool and mix with people who are just like you…did you really go to Egypt at all?

Egypt with a tour guide

After all, that eliminates a lot of the issues with a tour group.  It’ll be just you and whoever you’re traveling with, in a car with one guide.  They’ll pick you up, drop you off, and you can set the schedule however you want.

But here’s an important thing to remember: All tour guides in Egypt are independent contractors.

If you’re anything like me, you’ve spent a fair amount of time on TripAdvisor, researching your trips.  And certainly, you’ll find plenty of recommendations for tour guides on there.  Not just from people asking “Do I need a tour guide in Egypt?” but from reviews of tour companies.

“We loved Timmy’s Tours of Egypt!  Our guide Steve was so knowledgeable, and he even made balloon animals for us!  Five stars, what a wonderful experience!”

Sounds great, right?  You look through the other reviews of Timmy’s Tours, and they all sounds pretty good.  Why not go with them?

Well, Timmy’s Tours doesn’t have any tour guides.  None of the companies do.  They just hire guides on a day to day basis…that’s how the industry works in Egypt.  So maybe the person who wrote that review had a great time, and maybe Steve really did make them balloon animals. 

You could ask the company to make sure they give you Steve…but will they even know who that is?  Will the “Steve” they send actually be the one who’s talented with balloons?

If you choose to go this route, I’d recommend asking around on a place like the TripAdvisor Forums.  Someone who’s had a good experience with a particular guide can give you their information directly.

One final bit on this subject: Guides are not allowed in certain places, like inside the tombs of the Valley of the Kings or in the temples of Abu Simbel.  If you hire one at these spots, you’ll be going in alone.

Tour guides may not give you accurate information

See the front of the Great Temple at Abu Simbel?

I was watching a YouTube video where the vlogger gave a quick tour of the site, giving out information on its history.  A noble cause, to be sure — I think spreading information about amazing sites like these is commendable.

One of the first things he said was that the four figures carved into the stone at the front of the temple were Ramesses II and “three gods.”  He went on to explain that it was unfortunate that the sole image of the king was destroyed.

Every part of this is wrong.  The figures are all Ramesses II.  I can’t necessarily blame the vlogger, as he was obviously getting his information from a tour guide.

Unfortunately, this sort of issue is common.  Your guides are supposed to pass a test and be licensed by the government, but far too many are telling tourists things that simply aren’t true. But of course, it’s important to note this isn’t an Egypt-specific problem. You could wind up with a subpar tour guide anywhere in the world.

I encountered this myself on a tour of Saqqara.  The main reason I went with a guide was because the site is huge and can be difficult to navigate, but it was frustrating to hear him telling me things about the Serapeum that weren’t accurate.

Mind you, I’m far from an expert — there are trained Egyptologists who’d laugh at my meager knowledge.  But isn’t that saying something in itself?

Again, I’d reiterate the same advice I gave above: If you’re intent on hiring tour guides, make sure you’re asking around and finding a good one.  And keep in mind that just because someone recommends certain guides doesn’t necessarily mean those guides knew what they were talking about.

After all, I’m sure the vlogger in the video had a great time and was completely unaware that what he learned was wrong.

How to be your own guide in Egypt

Now this is the real trick, isn’t it?

If you’re not going to go with an Egypt tour group, and if you’re going to reject the idea of hiring your own guides, how are you supposed to know what you’re looking at?  That big relief on the wall inside the Great Temple at Abu Simbel isn’t going to mean very much if you’re clueless.

This site is all about explaining how to do your research before taking a trip — and part of that extends to educating yourself on the history of Ancient Egypt.

First and foremost, a book I found very helpful is called The Rise and Fall of Ancient Egypt, by Toby Wilkinson.  It provides an excellent overview of a civilization that spanned thousands of years, and is a good jumping off point.

You’ll also enjoy more picture-heavy books like The Complete Temples of Ancient Egypt and The Complete Valley of the Kings.

But there’s one book that I found absolutely indispensable.  It’s called The Illustrated Guide to Luxor: Tombs, Temples, and Museums, written by Dr. Kent Weeks.  Unfortunately, I believe it’s out of print in the US.  Doing a quick check, I found it listed on a used books site for about $60 — I’ve seen it on Amazon for as much as $900.

I followed the advice of others (thanks TripAdvisor Forums), and located a copy in Luxor.  It was at the somewhat famous Aboudi Bookstore, right next to Luxor Temple.

Obviously it’s preferable to do all your reading before going on a trip, but this book is something that can be carried with you.  It features maps and diagrams, as well as detailed information on what you’re looking at while walking through a site.

A side note: If you can find this book for $60 online, go for it.  Dr. Weeks is a legend, and this is one of the best books you’ll find.

Of course, I’d also be remiss if I didn’t mention The History of Egypt Podcast, which is easily the most accessible and entertaining deep dives you’ll find.  You’ll be completely flooded with valuable and fascinating information, every step of the way.

If any of this sounds like work to you, it shouldn’t.  Ancient Egypt is one of the most captivating topics around — with a bit of research, and as long as you feel comfortable doing so, you can be your own guide.  The best part?  You won’t be following a group, and you can be sure that your information is correct. 

You’ll look up at the wall, and you’ll know that you’re seeing Ramesses II at the Battle of Kadesh.

Note: Everything I say here is my own personal opinion, and may not work best for everyone. I’m far from an expert, so please just do whatever is best for you, and be sure to visit the TripAdvisor Forums to ask questions and do some more research!